女鞋制作流程SHOESCOURSE19-19

MERCHANDISING(SHOES)COURSE（跟单之鞋业课程）HANDBAGMANUFACTURECOURSE（鞋业制造课程）DesignedbyZoe@L&FCONTENTSShoesmanufacturefromdevelopmentstodelivery(鞋业制造-从开发到出货）ProcedureforShoesmanufacture（鞋业制造流程）TerminologyofShoesprocedure（鞋业工序专业术语）Specifications(分类）DressingFlat–closeshoesFlat–sandal资料来源：(分类）HeelWedgeSlipper资料来源：(分类）Boots10”height14”height资料来源：(鞋业制造-从开发到出货）Redtagsample（大版或红牌版）Revisedsample（修改版）Quoteprice（报价）Protosample（出初版）Pattern（出纸格）SketchDrawing，（图纸）PPsample（产前版或绿牌版）Placeorder（正式订单）sourcing--plan（工厂内部物控、采购原料，计划）Processanalysis（工艺分析）PPmeeting（产前会议）cutting-pre-processarrange（开料，前工序安排）Painting（油边）Assembling（成型）Sole（底部）UpperGluing（面部）Skiving（铲皮）Delivery（出货）Packing（包装）clean--fixshape--trimming（清洁，定形，剪线）ProceduresforShoesmanufacture（制造流程）Step1:Prepareforproduction(第一步：生产准备）Thatisprepareworking,likesourcingrawmaterialandtrim,trimcounter,physicalandchemicalstestingformaterialandhardware,procedureplanningandanalysis.（准备生产原料，生产原料的化学、物理测试，生产计划，生产工艺分析）Rawmaterial/Trim:Leather,PVC,PU,Fabric,Nylon，Bondedleather（生产主原料/配料有皮，人造革（PVC/PU),布料，尼龙料，再生皮等）Reinforcingmaterial:Suede,Plastic,Nonwovenfabric,leatherpaper，Nylon,webbing，paperboard(补强物料:牛筋皮，杂胶料，不织布，皮糠纸，牛筋尼龙，织带，纸皮）Step2:Cutting（第二步，开料）AccordingtoB.O.Mandcomparethefactoperationtoworkoutthematerialusage,thenarrangethediecutmould,matchthedirectionstocut(ifproduceleatherhandbagstillneedmatchgrain,colorandmarkalabel,thenwrapitbylot),etc,pleasereferbelowphotosformoredetails.(根据物料清单和对比实际运作中损耗来算出物料的用量，然后安排打刀模，开料时要分方向来开料，开皮料时，还要配纹配色来开料。皮料开好后。要将配好套的物料编好号码。防止生产过程中弄混淆，另外开的物料要小心保存，如布料是不能折，特别是丝印料要分隔开以免丝印色弄脏料，更多祥情请见以下图片）Step2:Cutting（第二步：开料-画好的皮料）Step2:Cutting（第二步，开料图片-画皮料）Step2:Cutting（第二步，开料图片-将画好的皮料开裁）Step2:diecutmould(刀模）Step3:Pre-processarrangement（第三步：前序工作安排）Somepartsofshoesmustbeproducebeforeothersprocedure,suchasembossing,assemblingandsewing.（有些零部件是可以先做，如电压，打钉或其它应车的小部件）Step3:Pre-processarrangement(第三步：前序工作安排图）Step4:Skiving（第四步，铲皮）skivepaneltoreducethicknessforimprovinghairyorhandfeeloreasyworkingSkiveedgetoreducethicknessforeasyworkingandgoodshape，butplsnote,forsomeareawhichwillbeunderveryhighforce,afterskivingedge,maybeneedtoaddverystrongthinnylonreinforcement.（铲皮分为大铲和小铲）大铲是将整个裁片都铲到统一厚度，有时皮没有里布，整个裁片的皮底太毛。需要做大铲处理。将毛底铲干净些。另外有时裁片太厚身，要改进手感，需将整个裁片铲到合理厚度。）小铲，小铲就铲边位，是为了生产过程中易做(如折边，包边等工序），且外形美观要将皮边位铲薄到适当厚度。有时要留意受边部位不能铲的太薄或铲后需加托一层薄的尼龙补强。Step4:Skiving（第四步，铲皮图）Step5:Gluing(第五步：擦胶水）Forsomepartsneedtogluingbeforefolding,sewingandassembling.(有些裁片，部件，五金，在折边，车缝和安装工序前是要擦胶水工作的。一是使做工方便，另一个是使鞋寿命加长）Gluehaveyellowglue,powderglue,milkyglue,447glue,Aglue,redglue,etc(胶水分为粘性较强的胶水，如黄胶、447胶，A胶，红胶，乳胶粘性次之，粉胶粘性最弱）Fordifferentrawmaterials,needtousedifferentglue.Suchlining,needtousepowderblue,PVCwithfabricbackingwhichusedasreinforcement,canusemilkyglue,otherreinforcement,usestrongadhesiveglue.Hardwareuseredglue(不同材料要用不同特性的胶水，里布要通常用粉胶，用其他胶水易渗胶。补强料胶水通常用较强的胶水。起针、收尾线头用较强的A胶，五金常用红胶等，布底的PVC料可用乳胶）Step5:Gluing(第五步：擦胶水图示）Step5:Gluing(第五步：擦胶水图示）Step6:Painting（第六步：油边）Likesomepanelrawedgeofhandbag(exceptforfolding,jeanseam)needtostainsomeoil.Thatmeanpaintalayeroil,oilcolormaybematchorcontrastingcolor.(有些原边是需要油边效果（但折边和车反除外）Basicoperationforpainting（基本油边操作）Primerapplication(打底）Paintapplication（油边）Buff（打磨，抛光）ContinueBasicoperationforpainting（油边基本操作）Secondpaintapplication,Thecustomerwillrequiretheedgepaintingeffect,butthedifferentcustomeralsohavedifferentstandard.Butonepointissamethatistheedgestainwillsoftenandstickwhenthetemperatureishighsuchasinthesummer.sointheseasonweneedtoaddtheproperanti-agent.Ontheotherhand,inthewinter,weneedtoaddtheanti-cracksubstanceduototheedgepaintingiseasytocrack（不同的客人对油边有不同的要求，主要看不同品牌的价位来定。另外边油在夏天时要耐高温和冬天时要耐低温。所以有时因季节性改变要向边油中加一些防爆防粘剂。冬天加防爆剂，夏天加防粘剂）Basicoperationforpainting（油边基本操作图片）Step7:Sewing（第7步：车缝）Thestitchingisveryimportantintheshoesproductionprocessduetothecomplicatedstructure.beforecutting,soaplanisneedtomakehowtoassemblingtherelatedcomponent.setthestitchingmethodandqualitystandard.Iftheproductionflowisreasonable,itdirectlyinfluenttheproductivityandproductquality.(因鞋类复杂的结构，车缝工作是很重要的。在开大货物料前，要就根据所批的样版来计划如何车缝，定下车缝方法和车缝标准。如果车缝流程得当的话。可能大大提高生产效力，并影响产品的质量）1.FlatBedSewingMachine（平车）Machinesewinggarmentsandothersproductsinvolvesewingtogethertwoormorepiecesofflatgoodswhichthetoptreadinterlockswithbobbinthread.Itiseasyhaspuckerswhensewingsomethinmaterialasonlyasinglelayerofmaterialdeliverybybottomfeeding.（平车主是靠底部来推动送布料，所以车较厚身料是易起皱，起泡。一般来说，来车是用来车较薄身较轻的里布。）FlatBedSewingMachine（平车图）2.UpperandLowerFeedSewingMachine（同步车）Thesewingtheoryissameasflatsewingmachine,differentisthemethodofdeliveringmaterial.Upperandlowerfeedsewingmachineissynchronizesthefeedofupperandlowerlayersofmaterialbytopandbottomfeedingmechanismwhilesewinginflationarymaterialsandlatentlymovablematerialsofmediumandheavyweight.Thesewingeffectisverysmoothlybutsewingthethinmaterialeffectisworsethanflatsewingmachine.(同步车是同平车一样的道理来车原料，不同的是同步车上下同步来送裁片，同步车用来车较厚身和表面不平伏的物料，同步车不适合车薄身，轻身的布料）UpperandLowerF